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Thread: ps 3 SIXAXIS JOYSTICK MOD

  1. #51
    Registered User


    Quote Originally Posted by Taiki View Post
    you know with a multimeter and a little bit of time you could've probalby figured this out yourself.

    lay off him man.
    Sorry, I don't take orders from you.....and I have a multimeter, it's just bugged out on me and gives me non-stop continuous copper trace beeps. And again, I don't take orders from you or anyone else, which makes me your equal and nothing less. Don't be foolish and kiss everyone's ass. I did not disrespect Mr. Wiz but just stated the simple fact that "changing his mind," to give further details and info and not posting back for more than a month and leaving not just myself, but others too, in the hang, just isn't that cool. Trust me, his help is basically the groundwork and foundation for what many of us will accomplish. Like Paik said, knowing which grounds are seperated with what buttons is a blessing for knowledge's sake. I just don't suck up, that's all. I'm sure Mr. Wiz might blink twice when he sees my post, but it's not disrespectful, it's just the TRUTH, and nothing but the TRUTH, so god help what flames you might want to start with me. Later, and I WILL BE BACK!

  2. #52
    Registered User


    Quote Originally Posted by Button_m4sh View Post
    a diagram would have been swell

    but i hope someone else can man up and deliver
    I will do my best. I might open one of my two controllers tonight. Got to order some 26 awg wire like Mr. Wiz said as I only have 22, and perhaps replace that battery on the multimeter, if not use the one from my work. I forgot if it was mentioned already, where is the ground for the ps button? Actually if anyone could point out the specific places for all 4 grounds, I should be able to do the rest, as Mr. Wiz has already pointed out which buttons need their seperate ground. Is this too much to ask? Testing which buttons are what will be easy as I just will tap the ground on the wire trace to see what buttons are what. I think where all the grounds are located is the only thing that's keeping us back so far.

  3. #53
    DRAGON!
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    so does this work with p360s? or non 5v laser sticks like sanwa/competition?
    i rule! you suck!
    txsfc!

  4. #54
    da Fetus of Gawd! Toodles's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by supergrafx View Post
    Sorry, I don't take orders from you.....and I have a multimeter, it's just bugged out on me and gives me non-stop continuous copper trace beeps. And again, I don't take orders from you or anyone else, which makes me your equal and nothing less.
    You're a far better man than I am; there is no way I could cram a dildo that far up my ass. I salute you, sir!

    The flex ribbon stuff that makes the contacts with the button is very easy to trace just with your eyeballs. Lemme find a good picture of it and I'll write up a damn mapping.

    As for the p360/flash question; There is always a way, but it may be hard; You would need to check with a multimeter to see if the common line for the directions is connected to the electrical ground (negative terminal of the battery or GND on the USB connector). If it is, happy days, just wire it up. If not, then you gotta get kinky with it and make a circuit using something like the analog switch circuits used in 360 hacks. Too much work for most stick modders.
    Working on: ChimpSMD Bootloader
    Cthulhu thread: http://shoryuken.com/f177/official-cthulhu-chimp-board-thread-mc-firmware-2-0-released-162026/

  5. #55
    Mostly Harmless Mayhem's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by yoooooon View Post
    so does this work with p360s? or non 5v laser sticks like sanwa/competition?
    Sticker on the internal battery says 2.7 V, seems a bit low for optical joysticks but might work with a step-up circuit. Of course you could just plug the cable in and tap 5 V directly from USB (assuming they follow spec and don't alter the voltage when a SixAxis is detected).

  6. #56
    Devil Hanzo hanz0's Avatar
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    ok i have a multimeter but i have no idea how to use it a friend gave it to me, what settings and reading am i suposed to get to know if i have a good spot for a button?

    and what reading do i need to get for a good ground spot??? i am totally clueless

  7. #57
    Registered User


    Quote Originally Posted by Toodles View Post
    You're a far better man than I am; there is no way I could cram a dildo that far up my ass. I salute you, sir!

    The flex ribbon stuff that makes the contacts with the button is very easy to trace just with your eyeballs. Lemme find a good picture of it and I'll write up a damn mapping.
    Awesome!! Thank you, dildos and all. Just don't nut in my face since I already have bad vision and the jizz would make my eyeballs that much foggier while doing this sort of thing. BTW, I might not get a chance to open the controller tonight (like that really matters), as I need some smoke to chill me out before my nightly ass pounding. LOL. All this BS ps2/hrap/ps3 converter shit out on the market, when Mr. Wiz said it was a fairly easy hack to mod the sixaxis. We really have no excuse not to make this shit happen. I'm feeling really kinki now since you mentioned the dildo. I need to get ready!!! Wait, I am ready!!! No really, thanks for possibly mapping the ribbon. Oh, one more thing! When you say the ground on the usb, do you mean solder anywhere on the outside of the usb metal plating casing that surrounds the actual usb connection?

  8. #58
    da Fetus of Gawd! Toodles's Avatar
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    Just from eyeballin the pics at http://gear.ign.com/articles/748/748732p1.html

    PS3 pinout of the ribbon connections, 1-20 as printed on the pcb itself.
    1 L2
    2 L1
    3 Up
    4 Left
    5 Down
    6 Right
    7 Common for pins 1-6 (Black strip connecting to 8. WTF?)
    8 Common for pin 9
    9 PSX button
    10 Common for 11 & 12
    11 Select
    12 Start
    13 Common for 14-20
    14 ??? (Goes nowhere, has a black strip connecting to 13, but no button. WTF? Does some part of the housing press down on those two black strip points?)
    15 []
    16 X
    17 O
    18 /\
    19 R1
    20 R2

    Quote Originally Posted by supergrafx View Post
    When you say the ground on the usb, do you mean solder anywhere on the outside of the usb metal plating casing that surrounds the actual usb connection?
    You'll find that one of the four wires the USB connection is connected to that metal shielding. You can tap there for true ground, but I have no idea what affect that will have shorting a button to true ground.
    Working on: ChimpSMD Bootloader
    Cthulhu thread: http://shoryuken.com/f177/official-cthulhu-chimp-board-thread-mc-firmware-2-0-released-162026/

  9. #59
    CTB? shoo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Toodles View Post
    Just from eyeballin the pics at http://gear.ign.com/articles/748/748732p1.html

    i saw that and your avatar and laughed
    DONE

  10. #60
    Team HnI Paik4Life's Avatar
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    Virginia, USA


    Quote Originally Posted by Toodles View Post
    Just from eyeballin the pics at http://gear.ign.com/articles/748/748732p1.html

    PS3 pinout of the ribbon connections, 1-20 as printed on the pcb itself.
    1 L2
    2 L1
    3 Up
    4 Left
    5 Down
    6 Right
    7 Common for pins 1-6 (Black strip connecting to 8. WTF?)
    8 Common for pin 9
    9 PSX button
    10 Common for 11 & 12
    11 Select
    12 Start
    13 Common for 14-20
    14 ??? (Goes nowhere, has a black strip connecting to 13, but no button. WTF? Does some part of the housing press down on those two black strip points?)
    15 []
    16 X
    17 O
    18 /\
    19 R1
    20 R2


    You'll find that one of the four wires the USB connection is connected to that metal shielding. You can tap there for true ground, but I have no idea what affect that will have shorting a button to true ground.
    Yeah this is the mapping I found today when I opened my PS3 controller. My power was out all day so I had nothing else to do. Got bored. I also have no clue what pin 14 is...I also can't say with certainty if 8 and 9 are actually the reverse of what it written above, not that it really matters for Japanese buttons anyway.

    I will look into it more later. I don't see why one can't do a spiffyshoes method of hacking. I tried it with just the PS button and it registered just fine. I will probably try it out later today.

    ~Paik

  11. #61
    da Fetus of Gawd! Toodles's Avatar
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    Paik, (or anyone else) can you take some measurements of the flex cable and connector? Mainly how wide the cable is, the trace width, and distance between traces? If its fairly standard, Im thinking a replacement cable and connector would make hacking those (and prolly the DS2 and DS1's, at least the ones that use those flex ribbons) pretty damn easy.
    Working on: ChimpSMD Bootloader
    Cthulhu thread: http://shoryuken.com/f177/official-cthulhu-chimp-board-thread-mc-firmware-2-0-released-162026/

  12. #62
    Team HnI Paik4Life's Avatar
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    Virginia, USA


    21mm x 3mm

    I've been looking for a mini b extension cable (female to male) for a while but none seem to exist. It would make my life a lot easier if I could find some...

    ~Paik

  13. #63
    Registered User


    I've had a real real bad cold for the last couple days so sorry I didn't post earlier. I destroyed my extra sixaxis. I went ahead w/ the hack and started soldering 30 awg isdn (hd, drive pc cable) onto the connector that connect the ribbon. I was successful for about the first three and should have stopped while I was ahead. My iron's tip became useless pretty quick even with tip tinner solution and I had to desolder quite a bit since those hinge things are like less than a mm long. In desoldering w/ a metal brush, one of the hinges parted and I was afraid that the connection to the pcb copper point was lost. So I ripped off the whole ribbon connector and thought that I would just solder through the board since the pin point copper traced wholes go through the board. I was not going to solder on the opposing side of the board, but just hot glue the other side so that connections would be secure. A couple of the wholes, I was able to string the 30 awg wire through, but the others required a hand drill. The handdrill I used that was successful for hacking a much simpler sfac pad for xbox, the drillbits that is, were too wide in diameter, which I realize now. I have severely compromised this pcb. I thought I would post a pic anyways, so that others could see the pinpoints which were apparently hidden before with the ribbon connector attached. I obviously need a better soldering iron with better pin point precision tips. Any recommendations? Also, with the multimeter I tested the supposable psx ground button with the psx button through strung isdn wire through the supposable pinpoints and nothing registered while the controller was plugged in the usb of the ps3. I feel really bad for this controller....... I am sad.......

  14. #64
    Team HnI Paik4Life's Avatar
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    Virginia, USA


    Okay I was testing this out just a little while ago and though the PS button worked fine, the pad would just randomly input stuff (directions and buttons) even though no other connections were being made. I'm really confused. Sometimes it would sit just fine and other times freak out. I guess I will try out some more stuff later but for now I'm just frustrated.

    ~Paik

  15. #65
    da Fetus of Gawd! Toodles's Avatar
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    Would you be up for taking a multimeter to the flex plastic for me? What is the resistance is between 13+14, 7+8, and a random button like 13+16? The resistance between button points when one of those little nipples is pressed down hard would be slightly more difficult but very helpful. Im betting if you duplicate those resistances, it'll behave in a much less erratic behavior.
    Working on: ChimpSMD Bootloader
    Cthulhu thread: http://shoryuken.com/f177/official-cthulhu-chimp-board-thread-mc-firmware-2-0-released-162026/

  16. #66
    Team HnI Paik4Life's Avatar
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    I got rid of everything aside from the PCB and the little ribbon connector part. I only kept that to take measurements for you. The rest is trashed : )

    I'll have to take a closer look at what Wiz did in his pictures.

    ~Paik

  17. #67
    The Man With The Plan MrWizard's Avatar
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    Contrib Points: 46

    Quote Originally Posted by Paik4Life View Post
    Okay I was testing this out just a little while ago and though the PS button worked fine, the pad would just randomly input stuff (directions and buttons) even though no other connections were being made. I'm really confused. Sometimes it would sit just fine and other times freak out. I guess I will try out some more stuff later but for now I'm just frustrated.

    ~Paik
    The ribbon has to be plugged into the slot to make everything work, if it gets removed, then it starts to go haywire.

    Hope this helps.
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  18. #68
    Team HnI Paik4Life's Avatar
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    I had though that it might be the problem, so I tried it with the remainder of the ribbon that I had and it still went crazy. Hrm...that's annoying. I still have the ribbon connector but not the whole thing. I cut it. La sigh...

    ~Paik

  19. #69
    da Fetus of Gawd! Toodles's Avatar
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    Here's the resistances between pins on the flex plastic on the sixaxis, without any pressing.

    Resistances for the long triggers (R2, L2) to their common: ~5kOhm
    Resistances for Dpad, main four buttons, R1 and L2 to their common: ~10kOhm
    Resistances for Start and Select to their common: Infinite (not connected)
    Resistance for PSX to its common: 750KOhm
    Resistance between pin 7 and 8: ~7.5KOhm
    Resistance between pin 13-14: ~7.5KOhm

    Paik, find a pair of 7.5KOhm resistors and put one between pin 7 and 8, and the other between 13-14, and I think you may not have that squirrely problem anymore.

    Edit:
    Pins 14 and 8 are directly connected, with 650KOhms resistance between it and true ground
    Pin 9 has 100KOhm between it and true ground.

    Weird. Sorry if this doesnt make sense to some, Im just keeping my notes here where I can find 'em.
    Last edited by Toodles; 04-17-2007 at 11:23 PM.
    Working on: ChimpSMD Bootloader
    Cthulhu thread: http://shoryuken.com/f177/official-cthulhu-chimp-board-thread-mc-firmware-2-0-released-162026/

  20. #70
    Team HnI Paik4Life's Avatar
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    Thanks, Toodles. I have some 10k resistors but I will have to go out to get the 7.5k ones. Those are the only 2 places that you think I'll need the resistors?

    ~Paik

  21. #71
    da Fetus of Gawd! Toodles's Avatar
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    If those two dont do it, you'll have to recreate them all. I am seriously hoping those two are all that's required.
    Working on: ChimpSMD Bootloader
    Cthulhu thread: http://shoryuken.com/f177/official-cthulhu-chimp-board-thread-mc-firmware-2-0-released-162026/

  22. #72
    Team HnI Paik4Life's Avatar
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    I couldn't find any 7.5K Ohm resisters at 2 Radio Shacks. I will have to look elsewhere. 1/4 W should be fine right?

    ~Paik

  23. #73
    da Fetus of Gawd! Toodles's Avatar
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    1/4 W or even 1/8 W is fine. Whatever current going through is tiny.
    Working on: ChimpSMD Bootloader
    Cthulhu thread: http://shoryuken.com/f177/official-cthulhu-chimp-board-thread-mc-firmware-2-0-released-162026/

  24. #74
    Tasty lime Hejdlond's Avatar
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    I've had my PS3 for a week and a half now and today I couldn't keep my hands off one of my SixAxis controllers. I tried using the spiffyshoes method with my 0,22 mm˛ wire (which is about 24 AWG) but the terminal was too narrow. So after getting 6 or 7 cables into the terminal it became troublesome adding more cables. So I resorted to combining soldering and the spiffy shoes method. Soldered the first cable, put the 2nd in the terminal and so on. This solution made it easy getting the cables into place in place wasn't that hard. After having all cables in place I checked that everything worked one last time and then drowned the terminal in glue from a glue gun so that the cables wouldn't come loose.

    Since I don't have a camera at home right now I made a preeetty picture, might come in handy for those who want to hack their own SixAxis

    Last edited by Hejdlond; 03-31-2008 at 05:02 AM. Reason: Added driver info

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  25. #75
    Registered User


    [QUOTE=Hejdlond;3858488]I've had my PS3 for a week and a half now and today I couldn't keep my hands off one of my SixAxis controllers. It had to be sacrificed for a better cause. I tried using the spiffyshoes method with my 0,22 mm2 wire (which is about 24 AWG). But the terminal was too narrow, after getting 6 or 7 cables into the terminal it became troublesome adding more cables. So I resorted to combining soldering and the spiffy shoes method. Soldered the first cable, put the 2nd in the terminal and so on. This solution made it easy and the installation wasn't that hard, though time consuming getting the cables into place. After having all cables in place I checked that everything worked one last time and then drowned the terminal in glue from a glue gun so that the cables wouldn't come loose.

    Since I don't have a camera at home right now I made a preeetty picture, might come in handy for those who want to hack their own SixAxis


    QUOTE]

    How did you do it with partially the spiffyshoes method if the ribbon must stay inserted? I've just ordered two more ps3 USED controller for 60 bucks, to try this again.

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